Peruvian Perfection: Eats and Treats by Tania Rebello
TDT | Manama
The Daily Tribune – www.newsofbahrain.com
The Peruvian pop -up located at the Bahrain Bay Kitchen terrace of the Four Seasons Hotel, features flabbergasting flavours and inventive creations by Chef Yovani Guevara that blew my mind! Influenced by several cultures such as Inca, Spanish, African and Asian, Peruvian food suits every palate.
Chef Yovani Guevara, with a prestigious Le Cordon Bleu diploma, is a veteran of some of the world’s finest Peruvian restaurants. With over six years of experience in the Middle East, she considers the region home, but her culinary heart remains in her home country.
“Peru is a paradise of biodiversity. It has one of the world’s largest pantries and showcases five continents in one country”. Hailing from Cajamarca in the north, she loves preparing dishes from Peru’s coastal, mountain and jungle regions. In Peru, our food is our culture, national pride, and passion.”
Chef Yovani enthusiastically explained. Seated amidst the lush, manicured gardens of the terrace, I enjoyed the cool breeze and soothing tunes as I waited for my first course- a selection of starters.
Chef Yovani presented the alluring dishes, explaining the ingredients used to create them. At first glance, I remember repeating the word ‘Wow!’ The bold colours shaped my appetite and built my excitement to taste the beautiful preparations.
Peruvian food is well known for its use of fresh ingredients. Ceviche is their national dish, and Yovani has crafted three beautiful ceviches.
Traditional ceviche consists of sea bass with tiger’s milk and sweet potato. Tiger’s milk or ‘leche de tigre’ is a traditional Peruvian sauce added to ceviche.
It is a tantalising combination of lime juice, sliced onions, chilies, seasonings and juices from the marinated fish.
The chef’s signature dish, ‘El apasionado,’ comprises shrimp with passion fruit tiger’s milk, charapita peppers, topped with plantain chips and sweet potato puree.
Charapita chili is small and bright yellow with citrus notes that provide a distinctive flavour.
The multiple textures of plump and juicy shrimp, crispy plantain chips, and smooth and creamy potato puree were stunning! This was followed by ‘hot ceviche’ with sea bass and shrimp, and as the name suggests, the dish has a spicy kick owing to the use of a sauce prepared from unique yellow chilli, aka aji amarillo, grown in Peru.
Each meticulously prepared ceviche had perfectly balanced sweet, spicy and tart flavours.
The fish was fresh and well-marinated. Edible flowers and micro greens delightfully adorned every dish with elegant and contrasting colours.
Salmon Tiradito is a work of art.
Bits of raw onion and chili in the dollops of chalaquita (Essentially a salsa), give a pungent and crunchy bite to the soft salmon and white corn.
Torched sweet potato adds pops of sweetness to the dish, while cilantro adds herby freshness.
The aji amarello sauce ties it together with a spicy and citrusy punch.
The balance of salty, sweet and sour of each ceviche and the tiradito is commendable.
Salmon causa combines creamy mashed potato, salmon tartare, tart black olive sauce, spicy mayo, avocado and salmon roe.
Together, these ingredients formed a mouthwatering bite. After the tasty starters, it was time for the main course.
Anticuchera is street-style grilled meat- the beef tenderloin is marinated in lime juice and vinegar, chilies and spices, and perfectly grilled.
Juicy and tender beef is drizzled with lip-smacking spicy yellow chili sauce and a duo of yellow and purple potato crisps for a textural element .
Grill marks offer a char that is irresistible for chilly winter nights. The beef is plated with a side of large kernels of Peruvian white corn sautéed in the same marinade as the beef.
A little tart and a little spicy, these morsels were addictive.
A seafood delight, the Arroz con mariscos features aji panca rice with a selection of seafood such as prawns, squids, scallops and vegetables such as green peas, carrots, huncain a sauce and parmesan cheese with shards of parmesan crisps.
Creamy, spicy and zesty, this dish is soul food!
Lomo saltado is delectable stir-fried beef tenderloin, onions, tomatoes, soya sauce, coriander, and potato wedges, served with jasmine rice.
A hint of Asian influence arrives with the use of soya sauce. Tender, succulent beef cubes were a magical bite with crunchy sautéed onions and juicy and warm tomatoes.
Potato wedges make this a well-balanced dish that is truly enjoyable.
Lomo saltado is delectable stir-fried beef tenderloin, onions, tomatoes, soya sauce, coriander, and potato wedges, served with jasmine rice.
A hint of Asian influence arrives with the use of soya sauce. Tender, succulent beef cubes were a magical bite with crunchy sautéed onions and juicy and warm tomatoes.
Potato wedges make this a well-balanced dish that is truly enjoyable. Yovani ensured a sweet finale with two dessertsPicarones that she described as Peruvian doughnuts.
The dough combines flour and sweet potatoes, and the doughnuts were airy and fluffy with a thin, crispy exterior.
They were non-greasy, lightly sweetened and paired well with the syrupy blueberry honey and passion fruit sorbet that accompanied them.
The Tres leches cake is soaked in a luscious blend of three milks.
The velvety texture of the infused sponge cake melts in your mouth, while white chocolate shards add a buttery and milky flavour.
I could not think of a better accompanim e n t than the fresh and chilled mango sorbet served with it.
Chef Yovani’s artistic and flavourful creations have made me an enthusiast for Peruvian cuisine.
She shares her pride in Peruvian cuisine through well-presented dishes with mind-blowing flavours. Her standards are high, so you can expect the best.
Her perfectionism is evident from the finesse with which each ingredient is treated and prepared.
Visit the pop-up at the Bahrain Bay Kitchen terrace from Wednesday to Saturday from 7 pm to 12 am.
Take advantage of this experience, as the pop-up will be available only until the 2nd of March.
For bookings, contact 17115500 or email diningreservations.bahrain@ fourseasons.com
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